Friday 31 August 2012

Fall 2012 Shoe Trends Part II - Longwing Gunboats


I don't own the rights to this picture.

Some time ago I wrote about heavy brogue boots and how they simply rock more than some puny fashion boots or some weak-ass Caterpillars. Now we’ll go through the ultimate street shoe, part of every connoisseurs wardrobe in places like NYC or London.



Tricker's Cordovan Longwings with Dainite soles. Picture from Frans Boone.


I must admit, it took me a while to get used to the heavy presence of the longwing brogue derby, AKA gunboat, but once it sank in, there’s no going back. My love for this shoe began a bit over a year ago, when I saw picture of one tough looking guy walking on the streets of SoHo in raw denim and Alden’s #8 (Horween Shell Cordovan color #8, a famous burgundy colored type of leather, made of a horse’s buttocks. More on that later.) longwings. After seeing the picture I was sold, but as it was a bit out of the boundaries of my own style I still haven’t bought a pair. Now, as there has been increasing discussion on how they are the smoking hot item to have this season, my trigger finger is itching more than ever.


Alden X Frans Boone. Picture from Frans Boone.


Now, there are plenty more butt-ugly longwings than there are good looking ones. To be honest, I only really approve of Aldens. Tricker’s tends to be well liked as well, and the quality is there, but I just don’t like their last shapes for longwings myself. Alden, however, is just perfect. The Barrie last has just enough sleekness not to be a total heavyweight or your grandpa’s shoe, but still retains that habitus to make other guys look puny, small and weak in their silly fashion shoes. Gunboats make a statement  few other shoes can make (when worn right).


Alden. Picture from arichinnerlife.tumblr.com.



When it comes to materials there’s a lot to choose from. Actually, this is one of the shoe types that can work in pretty much any color and material. Espresso calf, tan grained calf, navy suede, camel suede, black - almost anything goes. It can also be livened up with a natural welt as you can see in the picture below, and the soles can be pretty much anything. I would prefer Dainite soles, but the Finnish weather pretty much dictates my choice.


Alden X Frans Boone. Picture from Frans Boone.


Longwing Gunboats work best with jeans, and I would personally only use them with dark unwashed raw denim. I have seen many to pull it off with chinos of different colors, but I personally find this is a bit more tricky. Also the fitting colors vary much with the color of your shoe, so there isn’t too much advise that can be given here. More “street” items such as cameramans, parka jackets or military-inspired pieces such as M65s work well with this type of a shoe.


Alden X Frans Boone. Picture from Frans Boone.


So, to sum it up. If you want a shoe with some street cred, almost a commanding presense yet classical lines - get a pair of good quality longwing derbies. Furthermore, if your country has no massive piles of snow during winters and boots are not a requirement, gunboats have even more going for them. Pair them with the right items and you'll have a look that will rock the streets from New York City to Tokyo.

Read the first part here and leave a comment and let me know what you think. Will you be buying a pair of some brogue boots or perhaps a pair of longwing derbies?


7 comments:

  1. I have a pair of Herring Grassmere in grained leather that are my "go to" shoes when running errands in more casual outfits, like jeans, chunky knit and a Brunello wool cashmere gilet I picked last year on ebay

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    1. That sounds perfect. Have you been happy with them? I'm still trying to find a pair of Aldens for a good price. However, I think that's just not going to happen. Meermin has some nice cheap ones too, but I think they lack some of that oomph. Maybe with a natural welt..

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    2. Yes, they are my one pair of shoes that I take the least care of(that meaning I walk with them through rain, snow, mud in the country etc) and they have been excellent so far. The Aldens above in that blue-navy suede would be a treat...

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    3. Tell me about it. I think I might have to buy them for next spring..

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  2. I have two vintage pairs of longwings: a pair of black Nettleton's and a pair of tan Town Crafts, both bought for less than $20 at a local thrift store.

    I love them! They are perfect and in beautiful condition! The Nettleton's were made in the late 1990's and look as though they were rarely worn, while the Town Craft longwings have an excellent sole with minor wear to the heel.

    Being from the U.S.A., I have always seen the "classic" brands of longwings, such as mine. In my opinion, Alden's are a little overrated when compared to Nettleton's.

    It seems that the longwing is making a resurgence to popularity, so I am happy with my recent find! As for your longwings, are they leather soled? They look great!
    On my wishlist, I hope to find the perfect suede longwings at a bargain price.

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  3. The wingtips are great! But I'm an "old-school" American guy that likes the classic Nettleton wingtip shoe. It was the wingtip shoe of many American presidents and it is timeless! Too bad the Nettleton factory went out of business.

    I recently scored a mint condition pair of black Nettleton wingtips that had been rarely worn from a local thrift store in my area for under $10. I also scored a pair of $10 vintage brown Town Craft wingtips (which I have really enjoyed wearing with chinos and jeans). Alden's are a wonderful shoe but come with an "eyebrow-raising" price. But if someone can afford them, they are a "life-time" investment and well worth it.

    Having only spent $10 on a nearly new vintage pair of wingtips, I may have to make plans on purchasing a pair of suede wingtips to pair with my corduroy trousers for Autumn. Alden's will not be part of the plan...unless luck happens my way!

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    1. That's a good find. I have to say I'm not a huge fan of the classic wingtips as a part of my own style anymore, and actually I've just recently sold all but one pair of what I owned. The difference between a longwing and a wingtip is that the wing detail runs the whole length of the shoe as can be seen from the pictures in this post. Somehow the wingtip makes the shoe look short and stubby in my eyes, where as the longwing detail makes it sleeker and overall more attractive. Then again, some suede wingtips from especially Tricker's can be very cool for more modern outfits, especially in very outrageous colors.

      In any case, if you are really looking for classic wingtips and not longwings, I would suggest Allen Edmonds. Ebay in the US is literally stuffed with them and they go for very low prices. Worth a shot!

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