Fall 2012 Shoe Trends Part II - Longwing Gunboats

I don't own the rights to this picture.

Some time ago I wrote about heavy brogue boots and how they simply rock more than some puny fashion boots or some weak-ass Caterpillars. Now we’ll go through the ultimate street shoe, part of every connoisseurs wardrobe in places like NYC or London.

Tricker's Cordovan Longwings with Dainite soles. Picture from Frans Boone.

I must admit, it took me a while to get used to the heavy presence of the longwing brogue derby, AKA gunboat, but once it sank in, there’s no going back. My love for this shoe began a bit over a year ago, when I saw picture of one tough looking guy walking on the streets of SoHo in raw denim and Alden’s #8 (Horween Shell Cordovan color #8, a famous burgundy colored type of leather, made of a horse’s buttocks. More on that later.) longwings. After seeing the picture I was sold, but as it was a bit out of the boundaries of my own style I still haven’t bought a pair. Now, as there has been increasing discussion on how they are the smoking hot item to have this season, my trigger finger is itching more than ever.

Alden X Frans Boone. Picture from Frans Boone.

Now, there are plenty more butt-ugly longwings than there are good looking ones. To be honest, I only really approve of Aldens. Tricker’s tends to be well liked as well, and the quality is there, but I just don’t like their last shapes for longwings myself. Alden, however, is just perfect. The Barrie last has just enough sleekness not to be a total heavyweight or your grandpa’s shoe, but still retains that habitus to make other guys look puny, small and weak in their silly fashion shoes. Gunboats make a statement  few other shoes can make (when worn right).

Alden. Picture from arichinnerlife.tumblr.com.

When it comes to materials there’s a lot to choose from. Actually, this is one of the shoe types that can work in pretty much any color and material. Espresso calf, tan grained calf, navy suede, camel suede, black - almost anything goes. It can also be livened up with a natural welt as you can see in the picture below, and the soles can be pretty much anything. I would prefer Dainite soles, but the Finnish weather pretty much dictates my choice.

Alden X Frans Boone. Picture from Frans Boone.

Longwing Gunboats work best with jeans, and I would personally only use them with dark unwashed raw denim. I have seen many to pull it off with chinos of different colors, but I personally find this is a bit more tricky. Also the fitting colors vary much with the color of your shoe, so there isn’t too much advise that can be given here. More “street” items such as cameramans, parka jackets or military-inspired pieces such as M65s work well with this type of a shoe.

Alden X Frans Boone. Picture from Frans Boone.

So, to sum it up. If you want a shoe with some street cred, almost a commanding presense yet classical lines - get a pair of good quality longwing derbies. Furthermore, if your country has no massive piles of snow during winters and boots are not a requirement, gunboats have even more going for them. Pair them with the right items and you'll have a look that will rock the streets from New York City to Tokyo.

Read the first part here and leave a comment and let me know what you think. Will you be buying a pair of some brogue boots or perhaps a pair of longwing derbies?